San Rafael Swell showcases unique Utah landscape

TWISTY: Interstate 70 bisects the San Rafael Swell. / Photo by Dennis Adams, National Scenic Byways Online, U.S. Department of Transportation

By Stephanie Hebert

October 29, 2007 | There is a place where time stands still. Where the only changes that can be seen year-to-year are the changes Mother Nature makes to her sculptures. There are few such places left, but the one I am talking about is Utah's San Rafael Swell.

The San Rafael Swell is located in Emery County in south central Utah, just outside of a little town called Huntington, which is about an hour and a half south of Salt Lake City. The roads back into the swell are gravel and at times get washed out by flooding. The swell is approximately 75 miles long and 40 miles wide. It consists of slot canyons, washes, mesas, gorges, and rock formations that touch the sky.

Hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, and off road ATV's are all invited to use the swell. There are two rivers that cut through the swell. The water is not potable in either river for people so if you are planning to spend any time in the swell, plan on carrying in your own water.

The rock formations are so large they look like they could take you into heaven itself, but they aren't the only feature worth seeing. Sunrises and sunsets produce creamy reds, blues, oranges, and yellows that are the envy of any artist. They are light shows from the heavens that start and finish each day. After dark, the stars come out in their entirety to bedazzle the sky and the coyotes run across the desert yipping, announcing their freedom.

Compared to other places in Utah such as Zion National Park, or Arches, the rock formations are not as architecturally attractive and the way into see them is not as easy. You have to be flexible with your route as the roads do occasionally get washed out. The swell is not a national park; it is taken care of by the Bureau of Land Management. The people who use the swell the most are the farmers who have grazing permits for their cows. But the cows don't mind sharing.

For those who love to rough it, as there are no amenities -- once you are back in the swell, remember to bring your own toilet paper. For those of you who love the desert, and for those of you who love the quiet, the San Rafael Swell is a good place to enjoy them. Please remember the swell is a great place to visit but it is someone else's home, so respect it by taking everything out that you bring in.

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