Know
your rock before you climb -- or suffer the consequences
![](Transformer%2BCorador.jpg)
TRANSFORMER CORRIDOR:
Finally, after a long search, the goal is at hand. /
Photo by Christy Jensen
By Christy Jensen
September 26, 2006 | "Thanks so much for helping
us out, man; I didn't know what I was getting
myself into when I started that climb. I really
should get a guidebook for Logan Canyon."
That was the Nike-clad man my friends had just
helped down from The Fairy, a 5.9 route at Betagraph,
a climbing spot in Logan Canyon that the man had
been lead climbing.
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![](TAHITIAN%2BROCK.jpg)
Tahitian Rock. / Photo by Christy Jensen |
Logan Canyon is known in the climbing community to
have some of the best climbing in Utah -- and the world.
But if you don't have a guidebook or any climbing resources,
Logan Canyon can be a treacherous and fatal place.
It is dangerous to climb without a guidebook or guide
who knows the area you are climbing in. If you don't
know the level of what you are climbing, not only can
you be out $100 or more in quick draws and other gear,
but you might be out of your mind as well.
Guidebooks provide vital information about the area
where you want to climb: How long the route is, if it
is "trad" (traditional) climbing or sport climbing,
the level of the climb, the location, what to look out
for in the surrounding area, and a picture of the rock.
Not all guidebooks include this information, but you
will at least have the location and level of a climb
in any given book. Web sites such as mountainproject.com
can give up-to-date information on climbing locations.
Some guidebooks are very accurate and fool proof.
Guidebooks such as Northern Utah Limestone Climbing
fit into the accurate category, showing you every bolted
route in Logan Canyon and Green Canyon.
My luck with good guidebooks ends with the northern
Utah book. While preparing for a weekend at the City
of Rocks in Almo, Idaho, I asked Micah Soelberg, an
experienced climber and friend of mine, about a good
guidebook for the area.
He said, "A guidebook for the City of Rocks? Sure,
they exist but they might as well be in Chinese for
all the good they will do you."
I took his advice but my weekend climbing companions
brushed it off and bought a guidebook anyway.
We planned what we wanted to climb using the guidebook
as we drove to Idaho, only to have our plans ruined
when we discovered that our book did not tell us if
the climb was sport or trad climbing, or how much rope
was required. We went from rock to rock talking to climbers
and asking where all the sport climbing was since there
clearly was none where we wanted to climb.
A few climbers gave us vague directions to where we
should go. Some didn't know what they were talking about.
We found that the more people we asked, the better we
got to know the area by a combination of looking at
the book and talking.
After two hours of driving, hiking, and asking around
about sport climbing, we found what we were looking
for, Transformer Corridor, popular with sport climbers.
The rest of our weekend was semi-successful and we were
able to climb Tahitian Rocks later, but our weekend
could have been better had we researched online and
actually read about the City of Rocks more than two
hours before going.
You can never go wrong doing a little research before
climbing. It could save your life.
It doesn't matter if you are climbing in the City of
Rocks or Logan Canyon. Know your limits and your area.
MS
MS |